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Aug
17th - I am strolling onto the bridge for the first time in
the trip and immediately spot dorsal fins ahead of us...dolphins!
Its amazing how some days you can spend hours looking out to sea and
seeing nothing, yet on other occasions animals just appear on cue
with no effort whatsoever! Some of the dolphins swim slowly
towards the bow of the ship, while others travel straight past and
continue on their way. I get to the bow and easily identify
the bow-riding animals as rough-toothed dolphins. Unfortunately I
haven't even unpacked my camera, having only been on the ship for an
hour! By the time I assemble it and return to the bow, the
dolphins have left and I can take only a few shots as they move
away. Still...an excellent start to the survey! |
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Aug
18th - Risso's dolphins off Angola tend to be elusive!
The group of eight animals I am currently watching appeared suddenly
ahead of the ship and are difficult to track despite their tall
dorsal fins. The dolphins also have quite long dive times and
are quiet at the surface, and it takes all of my concentration to
monitor their movement as they travel down the port side and away
from the ship.
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Aug
19th - Predictably, cetaceans appear the minute I leave the
bridge to go and get some breakfast! Fortunately I have a
radio with me at all times on the ship, and it crackles to life as
the bridge officer tells me that we have some dolphin visitors.
I run to the bridge to grab my camera and then head down to the bow.
Most of the group of 150 dolphins travel straight past the ship and
do not bother to bow-ride, but a few eager individuals approach to
ride the meagre bow-wave. Their white beak tips and the
pattern of thick white spots along the sides of the adults make them
easily identifiable as Atlantic spotted dolphins, the most numerous
dolphin species in Angolan offshore waters.
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Aug
22nd - Ahead of the ship, dolphins are performing amazing
backwards somersaults. This large group look active and eager for
some entertainment and I am optimistic that they might approach our
ship to bow-ride. Eventually they can resist no longer, and
the first dolphins porpoise in towards the bow. A steady
stream of animals follow...but most spend only a minute or two
playing in the bow-wave before moving down the starboard side of the
ship where the swell crashing against the side of the ship provide
further amusement as the dolphins surf and leap out of the back of
the waves.
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Aug
22nd - A large bushy blow off the starboard bow alerts me
to the presence of a humpback whale, steady travelling south-east.
At this time of year large numbers of humpbacks are present off
Angola as they use West African waters for mating and calving during
the austral winter. This animal tail-swipes twice at the
surface before heading off into the distance. |
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Aug
23rd - The small group of dolphins that I have been
watching ahead of the ship are feeding...scattered splashes and
high-speed chases indicate that it is dinner time. But they
take time out from eating to visit the ship briefly. Over 10
min, the Atlantic spotted dolphins approach in little clusters of 1
to 3 animals and bow-ride lazily in the afternoon sunlight. To
my delight, one heavily-spotted adult brings her small calf to play
in the bow-wave, the youngster staying close to its mum and copying
her every twist and turn. |
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Aug
24th - There are few sights at sea as thrilling as seeing a
school of high-speed 'running' dolphins. The group of around
130 spotted dolphins I am watching travel slowly across our bow, but
suddenly pick up speed and porpoise away at speed. Suddenly
the ocean is full of small, dark shapes as the dolphins leap
frantically from the water in a scattered but coordinated movement.
I'm not sure what's triggered this response, but its a spectacular
view. |
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Aug
28th - The glassy seas this morning are producing lots of
sightings for me, as animals are easy to spot even several
kilometres away. Scanning with binoculars, a dark shape
catches my eye, shortly followed by a second animal which rolls
clearly at the surface revealing a smooth sloped back and a small
triangular dorsal fin. Beaked whales! I count four
animals in total, and I'm able to track them through three surfacing
bouts due to the favourable sea conditions. |
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Aug
28th - Two strange cetaceans appear off the port side, and
it takes me a little while to figure out that they are dwarf sperm
whales. I'm used to seeing these animals logging at the
surface, and in contrast these ones are actively rolling and
travelling which presents a strange dorsal profile. After a
short while the animals adopt their typical posture of stationary
logging, and I have time to take a couple of photographs before they
sink below the surface and disappear from view. |
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Aug
28th - The ship is surrounded by the tall, diffuse blows of
Bryde's whales. I estimate at least 12 of these large baleen
whales scattered across a several-kilometre area. The whales seem to
be foraging, with many changes of direction and steep dives
revealing their tail-stocks. The flanks of some of the closer
animals are covered in the pale circular scars from cookie-cutter
shark bites. |
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Aug
30th - A great sighting today, as photographs taken of a
group of unidentified, very splashy dolphins, turned out to reveal
Fraser's dolphins! The short beaks and tiny dorsal fin could
be clearly seen in the images. This was only the second
verified at-sea record for the Gulf of Guinea region, and will
doubtless prove to be the highlight of the entire survey. |
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Sep 3rd - Scanning the
glassy seas with binoculars I am startled by the sudden appearance
of two tall dorsal fins and faint blows. I watch intently for
the reappearance of these animals, which I immediately suspect to be
one of the larger 'blackfish' species. The pair roll again at
the surface, and I reach for my camera and take some images.
The conical heads and long backs prove indicative of one of my
favourite cetacean species, false killer whales.
And this pair are merely the leaders
of a large group of at least 50 animals...as I scan to the horizon
behind them I see many more false killer whales spread out in
small-sub-groups in the distance. One sub-group of eight
animals seem to be feeding...the animals do high-speed
surface-rushes at the surface and breach clear of the water on
several occasions. It's frustrating to be restricted to the
seismic vessel during sightings such as this...I would love to be
able to approach these fantastic animals for a closer look but I
have to be content with binocular views on this occasion. |
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Sep
4th - Again, I am grateful for my radio this morning.
I'm just sitting down to breakfast when it crackles into life and
the bridge team inform me that there are dolphins beside the ship.
A small group of Atlantic spotted dolphins have returned to our
vessel with the workboat, which has been out taking a
Temperature-Salinity reading a few miles from the ship. As the
workboat is winched back onboard the ship, the dolphins swim along
beside the vessel no doubt wondering where their fun has gone!
With a few farewell leaps, they quickly depart. |
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Sep 5th - I've been
watching two humpbacks ahead of our ship for some time, as the
splashes produced by their flipper-slapping and breaching can be
seen for miles. There is another whale even further away,
which I occasionally see breaching on the horizon. The nearest
pair slowly head directly towards the bow of our ship, their longish
dives interspersed with brief spells of surface activity. A
kilometre ahead of us, one of the humpbacks breaches high from the
water, landing with a huge splash. It seems that it is the
same animal performing all the aerial activity, with its companion
adopting a more sedate approach. I'm anticipating a close encounter
with these whales, and I have my camera ready. After every
long dive, the livelier animal re-emerges with a spectacular breach
and so there will be only one opportunity to capture this on film
when the animals are closest. Suddenly the still grey water
erupts as the humpback emerges in a huge breach that seems to fill
the landscape. I miss the actual emergence of the animal, but
am able to capture a series of shots as the animal crashes down into
the ocean on to its back. The sound of the animal crashing
into the water is audible a second later...a colossal noise that
must be audible to other whales for miles around. |
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Sep
6th - Today we ran into another foraging aggregation of
Bryde's whales...at least eight animals. One of them approached to
within 100 m of the ship before seemingly becoming suddenly aware of
the vessel and doing a sharp U-turn to swim away again.
Another individual lunge-fed at the surface, revealing its bright
pink ventral slits and pointed rostrum.
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Sep
7th - The pair of humpback whales I am watching are
behaving very strangely. While one animal remains mostly
subsurface throughout the sighting, the other individual is doing a
headstand in the water to hold its tail stationary above the
surface. With the bright white colouration on the underside of
the flukes, the whale looks like some strange item of garbage
floating on the sea surface. It never fails to amaze me how
precise and manoeuvrable these huge animals are in the water. |
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Sep 7th - It has been a
quiet day today, but not long before dusk I become aware of lots of
dolphin splashes up ahead of the ship. And from the distribution of
the splashes, this must be a very large group. I am
concentrating so hard on the nearing group of splashes that I almost
miss some dolphins travelling closer to the ship. This small
group of around ten Atlantic spotted dolphins turns and swims past
the bow, before turning back again and approaching the ship to
bow-ride. The dolphins roll onto their sides and backs and
stare intently up at the ship's bow...I have never seen dolphins
quite this curious before and it is exhilarating to watch.
They don't seem to mind the slow speed of the ship and simply seem
to be enjoying checking out the vessel and perhaps even at me
staring down the camera lens at them.
The distant splashes continue to
approach and before long I can see hundreds of dolphins spread out
in a huge group. The dolphins emerge from the water in a
characteristic forward leap with their tails remaining in the water,
and crash down onto their bellies to produce a cacophony of slap
sounds. Some of the crew comment that this behaviour almost
appears aggressive, as they are so purposeful and noisy. As
the first dolphins appear at the bow, I quickly identify them as
common dolphins from the tan hourglass pattern on their sides.
Unfortunately the light has faded so badly that I'm unable to get
photographs of them, with only a single picture of a bow-riding
animal proving usable. But the sight of these dolphins leaping
and porpoising into the bow was one of the most spectacular events I
have witnessed at sea. |
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Sep
8th - Perhaps a remnant from last night's common dolphin
superpod, today I see a couple of smaller groups of common dolphins
travelling through the area. One of the groups approaches to
within a few hundred metres of the ship, and although most of them
travel straight past the vessel a handful of animals can't resist
coming over for a brief bow-ride. One small closely-knit group
come towards the ship in line-abreast formation, appearing at the
bow with loud whistles and spending a few minutes playing around the
ship before following after the others.
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Sep
8th - A second group of common dolphins later in the day
are less keen to interact with the vessel, but some juveniles
perform high leaps into the air as the group porpoises past the
ship.
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Sep 8th - An enormous bushy blow a mile
off the starboard bow is the first indication I have of the presence
of two humpback whales...and these guys look purposeful. They
produce a sequence of big powerful blows and then fluke coming
directly towards the ship, and I have the distinct feeling that they
mean business! So I'm not too surprised when they surface
again only a couple of hundred metres from the ship, one animal
vigorously tail-lobbing. I radio the crew and let them know
the animals are close...some of them have never seen a whale before
and are keen to come for a look. These whales do not
disappoint...I jump with shock as a loud exhalation reveals one
animal less than 10 m from the side of the ship, closely followed by
its comrade. A range of point & shoot cameras, video cameras
and my large lens all point at the whales...probably making them the
most photographed individuals in the entire Southern Hemisphere!
As we watch, one animal half-breaches revealing it's long white
flipper before falling back into the sea. The humpbacks remain
swimming alongside us for almost an hour, and it's only when we turn
the ship away from them that we finally lose their company.
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Sep 9th - It's
not long after dawn, but already there are blows ahead of the ship.
The blows are tall but diffuse and I am already expecting these to
be Bryde's whales rather than humpbacks. This is soon proven,
as the sleek narrow back of a Bryde's whale rolls at the surface,
revealing the tall and falcate dorsal fin. The nearest animal
approaches to within 100 m of the bow, providing an excellent view
of it's head ridges and jaw line.
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Sep 9th - The
sea surface is calm today, and I am not surprised to pick up a small
group of three beaked whales later in the afternoon. The
whales surface several times with quiet rolls. As is so often
the case, they are orientated away from the ship and I'm unable to
get a good view of their heads and beak shape. |
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Sep
10th - In stark contrast to yesterday, the sea today is
choppy and heavy with whitecaps. I am not optimistic about
seeing too many marine mammals in these conditions, but to my
surprise the large dark fins of pilot whales appear briefly between
the swell waves ahead of the ship. It is only a small group of
perhaps eight animals, including two large bull males. The
whales seemed to be travelling purposefully at first, but as the
ship approaches them they stop and mill in the water ahead of us.
I travel down to the bow to get a closer look, as the whales are
logging immediately ahead of the ship and this looks like being a
close encounter. The whales come to within 15 m of the bow
before they take action to move away from the ship, and I can
clearly hear the sharp exhalations of their breath before they
sound. Another shape catches my eye and I briefly see the
round shape of an olive ridley turtle swimming along behind the
whales!
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Sep
10th - It's certainly been a good day for pilot whales -
just before dusk I sight the third group of the day. These
animals are spread out and travelling in small sub-groups but I
estimate around 35 altogether. There is also a pod of
bottlenose dolphins travelling amongst them. All of the
animals seem to be on the move...they travel purposefully southwards
throughout the sighting.
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Sep
11th - Detecting dwarf sperm whales is so reliant on both
calm sea conditions and a little bit of luck. I can only begin
to imagine how many I must miss during these surveys, since they are
so small and inconspicuous and the time they spend at the surface is
brief. I have only ever spotted these animals during binocular
scans, and today is no different. I am scanning across the
water when two small black shapes catch my eye. It would be
easy to dismiss this as flotsam or jetsam, but as I watch the little
shapes I see one of them disappear below the surface and then
reappear again. The pair of dwarf sperm whales log at the
surface for several minutes before sinking and disappearing from
view.
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Sep 12th - It's been a
disappointingly quiet day today, but a treat is in store. Late
in the afternoon I spot dolphin splashes ahead of the ship and see a
group of around 100 animals approach one of our chase boats.
Although they are still 2 miles away from me, the dolphins already
don't look like the usual Stenella / Delphinus
shape/behaviour. These animals are slightly more robust and
have very broad and tall dorsal fins. Some of them perform
leaps from the water, landing heavily onto their sides without the
agility of the smaller dolphin species. It is frustrating that
the light is fading and the animals don't seem to be coming any
closer to me. But I'm in luck as our vessel starts a slow turn
towards them. As we get closer, the dolphins get more active
and I see three animals heading to us. I have an inkling as to
what the species is, and as the animals reach the bow I am delighted
to confirm my suspicions. The sloped forehead and narrow dark
grey dorsal cape confirm the species as rough-toothed dolphins.
And they are keen to play.
The entire school approaches the ship
and spends over 30 min swimming at the bow and performing
acrobatics. I am hugely frustrated that yet again dolphins
have appeared at dusk and my camera is only just able to capture
some images in the poor light. The encounter is
spectacular...perhaps the highlight being the sight of two adults
closely flanking a tiny newborn calf as it cautiously rides the
bow-wave.
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Sep
15th - The final morning of the survey, and I am visited by
two humpback whales who swim closely down our port side. The
whales roll their backs steeply and sound, lifting their enormous
tails clear of the water to disappear beneath the surface. A
nice end to an amazing four weeks.
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